Staying at the Station

Hello Family and Friends,

Today, Sunday 21^st July, we are having a quiet, rest day, although I have just done a small load of hand washing (no rest for the wicked!!). We are currently at Charnley River Station which is approximately 258kms from Derby (west coast) and 508kms from Kununurra, which is 52kms away from the start of the Gibb River Road (GRR). The distance from Derby to Kununurra is 712kms and of that, 654kms is the GRR which is 100% dirt with bull dust, rocks, water crossings and truly spectacular scenery and places to see along the way.

Nine years ago when we were up here last, we did not stop and see half as much as we are seeing on this trip. It makes such a difference when you have time up your sleeve and no real fixed agenda. On arriving at Charnley we had 4 “spare days” up our sleeve. This was mainly due to the fact that we didn’t stop at Barnett River Gorge, which was our next stop after Mt Elizabeth Station. We were a bit undecided about staying there but thought we would for 2 nights. When we pulled out of Mt Elizabeth Station, we did not realize that we had pulled out in between 3 NSW couples driving in convoy. We had the pleasure of listening to the 3 couples “twoddle on about nothing” on the CB radio (we always leave ours on scan while we are travelling). One good thing they did say was that Barnett River Gorge was not that impressive and not to pull in. The problem was that the first driver of the 3 had turned in and had stopped to wait for his friends. We were driving behind the first couple, so we just kept on going towards Mt Barnett Roadhouse, and were finally rid of driving behind his bull dust!!!

Nothing up here is small, including the boab trees!!

Any way, the last place I mentioned on my previous blog was Mt Elizabeth Homestead. The drive from Drysdale Station to Mt Elizabeth Station was a good one and it was not until the 2^nd day at Mt Eliz that I noticed that we had 100% lost one of our spot lights off the front of the 4WD. Nothing was left but the cable and the bracket that holds the light and the globe! Then Anthony noticed we had smashed off one of the light covers on the camper and we had lost one of the screws that keeps our bigger side mirrors attached to the Prado. Our biggest day of things breaking yet!!

Mt Elizabeth Station was a lovely place and we did both the 4WD tracks available. The first one was the more difficult, which Anthony loved, and the second was just a bush track but had a gorgeous river swimming spot at the end. And, you guessed it, we were the only ones there yet again. I’m thinking we might have BO or something!!!

All 3 photos: Mt Elizabeth Station- gorge at end of difficult 4WD track

Mt Elizabeth Station- easy to get to gorge

We stayed here for 3 nights and on the second day Anthony did some maintenance on the car. He checked that the wheel nuts were tight on the car and camper, got under the car to remove the bash plate, hit the dings out of it then put it back on- just a few medial tasks like that!!. This was after we had done the more difficult 4WD track, but some of the knocks would have happened earlier in the trip. That night we went to the Homestead for a 3 course dinner ($45 ea) which was just lovely. We had vegetable soup, then a buffet of beef pie, mashed potato, pineapple rissoles (yum!), pumpkin bake and beans. Dessert was either Chocolate self-saucing pudding or pineapple sponge cake (and I had the yummy pineapple sponge folks, because they ran out of choc s/s pud!!). We also sat with a coupe from Qld, Shane and Lisa, and a Doctor, Heinrich (radiologist specialist who works at the Alfred) from Amsterdam (I kept calling it Amstersmash (from my 1987 Contiki trip) and he thought that was hilarious!!) who were just lovely people. It was a superb night with mixed conversation, good food and plenty of laughs!!

Julie and Heinrich with a wallaby joey

After Mt Elizabeth (and driving straight past Barnett River Gorge) we arrived at Mt Barnett Roadhouse. This is an aboriginal owned Roadhouse that has quite a good range of grocery items and fruit and veg, be it very expensive. While we were here (we stayed 2 nights) the supply truck made it’s weekly delivery so I was able to buy some F&V as we were leaving. Ok, are you ready for this- $4.90 for 4 mandarines, $5.50 for 4 apples AND $9.00 for 2 capsicum!!! But I must admit that the mandys and apples are delicious!

Part of Mt Barnett Roadhouse is the camping area and water hole called Manning Gorge. This was just lovely with a water hole (Manning River) right next to the camping area and a brilliant gorge (Upper Manning Gorge and Manning Falls) which is across the river (you cross in a boat) and a 3km hike over rocky ground. But the waterhole is just brilliant and well worth the trek. We swam across the waterhole to the waterfall and stood on a ledge on the other side of the water fall- just spectacular.

Above & below: Manning Gorge

After 2 days at Manning Gorge we headed off to Charnley River Station, where we are now. On the way we stopped and had a look at 2 more gorges- Galvins Gorge and Adcock Gorge. Both were nice but we didn’t swim in either: just walked in (over rocks!!) and took some photos.

Charley River Station is just lovely. Their driveway is 43kms long and we think this must put a lot of people off as there really aren’t a lot of people here. We originally booked in here for 2 nights, but have extended it to 3 as we are enjoying it a lot and we have “spare days” to use up!! Yesterday we drove out and checked out 2 of the 4 gorges on offer at this property, but after the second one- Grevillea Gorge, where we did have a swim and some lunch, I said to Anthony that I am a bit “gorge-and-rock-climbing-out”, hence the quiet day today.

Charnley River Stn: Grevillea Gorge

Last night we had dinner at the Homestead which was lovely. $20 each for a porterhouse steak, salad and chips (I was salivating when I saw chips on the menu!!). Then they came out and said for $5 each we could have some apricot pudding and cream. Well, everyone’s’ hands shot up in the air faster than you could blink!! It was another really nice night as the staff all move around to talk to everyone at each of the tables. These people are so remote from everything and everyone that they have some brilliant stories to tell. Although they were all very surprised when I mentioned that we had passed a grader on our way in who was grading their 43km drive. This is something the local shire maintain and not the station themselves, so they never know when it will be done. Well, not until the grader stops at the Homestead and has a cuppa with them, which he did this morning!! I was at the Homestead paying for dessert and again thanked the grader driver for his good work. He just wished people would slow down when they passed him on the road as some whiz past doing 90-100 kms. I was so shocked and said that we like to go past slowly so I can wave to the driver. I swear I saw him rolling his eyes!!

Well tomorrow we head off to Mornington Wilderness Camp, which is a part of the Mornington Wildlife Sanctuary and is owned and operated by the Australian Wildlife Conservancy. This place is 95kms off the GRR so we are hoping it might also be a quieter place to stay. Well, we will find out tomorrow, I suppose.

Stay warm everyone, and enjoy the snow in Adelaide (what the!!!). We’ll be in touch soon.

Love and kisses from Jules and Anthony. xxoo

We both fell for the Falls!!

Hello Family and Friends,

Well, this trip just seems to get better and better. Since my last update, boy have we covered a lot of territory.

We stayed at Home Valley Station (on the Gibb River Road) for a total of 4 nights. We didn't do an awful lot of anything- just relaxed! The lunch we did have at the restaurant though was lovely and I can recommend their cappuccinos!! We met some lovely people there including a lady called Sam who was travelling the Gibb River Road on her own. I also think she might have been ill as she was always wearing a scarf on her head and I don't think she had any hair underneath, and she didn't have any eye brows. She was a really gutsy lady and she was just lovely to talk to. She had started her trip in Broome and was travelling the opposite way to us. I gave her some pointers on the roads and places we had visited and she was able to do the same for us. She was from Victoria and had a good laugh when I bagged some Victorians under my breath when they drove into the camp ground driving like idiots!!

Next stop was Ellenbrae where we stayed for one night. This again was a lovely spot but not as flash as HV8 (this is Home Valley’s logo and also their stock branding symbol- Ellenbrae’s is 7XL). We did have the most magnificent scones, jam and cream at Ellenbrae though. They were still warm and must have just been made. They do have a very good reputation for their morning and afternoon teas with many people just driving in for the scones then leaving. At $8.00 per person, it is a nice side line, if you ask me!

The next day was a big one for us as we headed up the Kalumbaru Road towards Mitchell Falls. 9 years ago when we did this trip, the Kalumbaru Road was disgusting, as was the road into Mitchell Falls, and we did both shockers and a tyre in our feeble attempt to see the Falls. So, were we really surprised when the Kalumbaru Road was in very good condition. We stayed at Drysdale Station (well, their watering hole 5 km from the Station at a place called Miners Pool) for the night. We went for a swim in the pool and it was just divine- not cold at all. There are no crocs here so the only things you have to worry about are other travelers’ and their kids jumping around! (well, it is school holidays so there are tons of them around!!)

The next day we headed up to Mitchell Falls. This was always going to be a huge “I can do it” sort of day for us as we got into trouble right at the beginning of the Mitchell Falls Road so we really didn’t achieve anything on our previous trip except for breaking the car and travelling on a truly shitty road for 2 days!! So again how surprised were we when the Mitchell Falls Road was also in terrific condition. And when we passed the Grader Man, who just happened to be standing along side his grader, I just had to get Anthony to stop and thank this guy so very much for all the great work he does. It would be a terrible, thankless job, but for us it was just terrific. Poor guy was so shy he just didn’t know what to say or where to look!! I’m glad we stopped though, as it is not very often you do get to say thanks for a job well done to the actual person responsible. The most we normally do is wave to him as we slowly go past.

Well we got up to Mitchell Falls at about 11.30am, found a really nice spot and set up our tent!! Yes, we left the camper trailer behind at Drysdale. We were always going to “tent” it into the Bungles and Mitchell Falls as we did not want to do any damage to the camper. The fact that both roads were in brilliant condition meant we could have taken the camper, but we were happy to tent it. Although you do appreciate the camper so much more when you use it after “tenting it”- there’s so much more room(and you can stand up to get changed!!)

We went over to the Helicopter booking office to enquire about flights to the falls. After speaking to “our neighbors” after we arrived, they suggested flying to the falls at 8am (first flight) and walking back. They had just done that and the walk back in the mid morning was very comfortable, they said.

You could get a flight straight to the falls (6 minutes) for $115.00 each, but we decided to do the 18 minute flight which takes you over the Lower Mitchell Falls and the JCR Falls, both of which are inaccessible by foot and have crocs!! It was a truly spectacular flight and we both thoroughly enjoyed it. Our pilot, Shaun, did some slow sweeps over the falls and the occasional dip. I mentioned to the pilot when we were flying (via the intercom system) that I was loving his flying, and he shot his head around to look at me. Poor guy probably thought I was about to throw up over the back of his head!!

Mitchell River

JCR Falls 

Mitchell Falls from the air and from the ground (below)

Once he dropped us at the Falls though, we were the only ones up there- for about 10 minutes until some of the early morning walkers arrived!! Still, we were able to get quote a few photos with no one else in them!! The falls themselves are just spectacular and we are so glad we were able to see them from both the ground AND the air. 

On our walk back to the camp we stopped 3 times to have a swim in the waterholes. They were just lovely and again it was just us every time. We were very lucky as you pass so many people walking on the tracks and the helicopters are going all through out the day, yet we were having these waterholes to ourselves!

Little Mertens waterhole near Mitchell Falls campground

The following day we headed back to Drysdale Station (Miners Pool) and spent 2 nights here. This was a great opportunity for me to do some hand washing and again we went swimming in the pool 2 or 3 times a day to keep cool. Oh, and Anthony filled up at Drysdale when we went in to pick up the camper. $2.35 for diesel and it cost nearly $290.00 to put in 123 litres (that’s not even a full tanks worth!!) So stop complaining at home about petrol prices!!!

After Drysdale we headed back out to the Gibb River Road again. Once we had turned onto it we both mentioned that this road was “very average” compared to the newly graded Kalumbaru and Mitchell Falls Roads. Oh well, it’s still not a bad road to drive on and we are able to sit on around 50 to 80 kms, depending on conditions.

At the moment we are at Mt Elizabeth Station. This is a working station with 2 terrific 4WD drives to waterholes and waterfalls. We did the harder of the 2 this morning and Anthony thoroughly enjoyed himself. The waterhole and waterfall at the end were just magnificent. And again we had it to ourselves. We passed 2 families who were walking in to the area as we were walking out (we noticed they were both South Aussies when we got back to the car park!!) but for the hour we were there it was just us. Just damn lucky I suppose!!

Well that’s it for now. More updates in the next couple of days.

Love, Anthony and Julie xx

Boy, it's warm up here!!

Hello Family and Friends,

Well it has been a few weeks since I have updated you all on our big trip, but there is a good reason for my tardiness. Anthony's father, Gil, passed away just over 2.5 weeks ago and we were in the middle of the Buchannan Highway when it happened. (The Buchannan is further north than the Tamani and south of the Great Northern Highway (bitumen)). All I can say is thank goodness for my "Gadget Man Husband" because if it wasn't for him, we would not be travelling with a free satellite phone. Anthony's mum was able to call us as soon as it happened AND we were able to book flights (and cancel my trip to Perth for my MS treatment) all within a 3 hour time frame!! Bloody fantastic!

So Anthony and I have just spent a very cold week in Adelaide, arriving back in Kununurra on Tuesday afternoon. I can honestly see why so many people head north for the winter- it's just too cold down south. Flying back, we actually discussed the possibility of heading north every winter and it's definitely on the cards. You really need to go further north than Alice Springs though, as that place is freezing at night- well, it is in the middle of a desert!

Buchannan Highway

Buntine Highway

At the moment we are staying at Home Valley Station, which is off the Gibb River Road. Originally we thought we might stay at El Questro for 2 nights but decided against it. We stayed there 9 years ago and really disliked it. Queing for loos and showers as the place was over crowded with minimal amenities has left their mark on us. So when we headed out of Kununurra on Thursday morning and onto the Gibb River Road, we thought that instead of going into ElQ, we would just take the short walk to Emma Gorge. Again we have been here before and although it is owned by ElQ, it is on the other side of the GGR so we thought we could just go in, take the walk, maybe wet our feet then head off. But no. It was going to cost us $10.00 each to walk on their property. So back to the car we headed, and onto Home Valley Station. 

This place is really nice. There is the normal grassed camp grounds just near the homestead, but we are camped out in the cleared, dirt area right on the Pentecost River- complete with crocs!! Not that they could ever climb up the banks to the camping area, but we can not swim in the water. But it is very nice here, under the trees with a gentle breeze wafting over us from the river. And it is probably about 28C. Oh, it's so nice!! Today we headed back to the Station and had lunch- a huge buffalo burger with fries- yum oh! Nothing for tea tonight as we are both still full. 

Since the last e-mail though we have travelled to Marella Gorge (a lovely spot on private property which you just call the Station to ask if you can stay), 

Our setup at Marella Gorge

Saw Pit Gorge, near Halls Creek

Halls Creek (who have a wicked bakery in the main street- who would have thought!!), the Bungle Bungle (brilliant road going in- 50 km/hr and in great condition- and the roads in the National Park are very well kept as well- fantastic camp sites and beautiful scenery- well worth visiting!!) and Kununurra.  

The Bungles and Echidna Chasm (below)

We were very lucky to find a wonderful caravan park that could take us for 11 nights while we headed back to Adelaide. We stayed 2 nights then flew back to Adelaide for 7 nights then stayed another 2 in the caravan park. Nothing was stolen or moved, a few of the neighbours asked where we were the night before they saw us and were very surprised when we said that we had been in Adelaide for the week. As we left Kununurra we both made the comment that it is a really nice town, and it is!!

Well that's our tip so far. We are thoroughly enjoying ourselves and loving the warmer weather.
So stay warm everyone (hee, hee) and I'll be in touch soon.

Love A&J xxxoooxxx

Hello from a long way away!!

Saturday 15th June 2013

Hello everyone,

A big hello from the top end of NT and WA. Oh, a few of you didn't know we were even away. Sorry about that, but Anthony and I are doing a 4 month (yes, FOUR month trip!) of the Kimberley, west coast and Perth. Why, you ask? I'm hiding from the fact that I am turning 50 in August (yes, the BIG 5-0!!).

We left home nearly 2 weeks ago, spent a day in Pt Augusta visiting the RFDS base and the Arid Lands Botanical Park (both well worth doing and they have tours of each place), visited a friend of ours in Roxby Downs for 2 days (again, do the BHP tour of the plant- well worth it!!), then headed North.

We spent 4 days in the East MacDonnell Ranges, just out from Alice Springs, at a place called Trephina Gorge. 

We have been here before and love it. The walks around the Gorge are just lovely and we did 2 of them over the four days. It is a very busy place, although that could have been due to people going to the Finke Races then having a few days off as there were some with motor bikes in the back of their utes (it was like being at a B&S!!- Google it up if you don't know what a B&S is!).

On Thursday night we were in Tennant Creek. We left there yesterday, went a bit further north, then turned LEFT!!! We are now on the Buchanan Highway and in the tropics. Gone are the flannelette sheets and PJ's and out are the cotton sheets and PJ's. The weather is about 27C with a light breeze- just glorious. We have been in shorts and tees for a couple of days now, but the nights have been very cold. Now it is mild all the time and sunny during the day.

Our current camp site is off a track from the highway. We have stayed here before about 9 years ago and didn't think we would be able to find it again, but we did!! Thank goodness Anthony had a GPS mark for it or we would have driven straight past it. We are in a clearing with trees and dried grass around, but it is great. Anthony says you can just see us from the road but you would need to look at just the right time to see us hiding in here!! We were here last night and will stay tonight as well. Sorry Dad, no tracking us today.

Oh yes, you can track us if you'd like.

http://www.exploroz.com/EOTrackMe/Default.aspx

Just click on this link, wait for the Member Tracking to load (middle of the screen, left hand side), scroll down to Morcs & Jules (you may have to click on 'get next page' to see our names). There will a padlock there and in the password field enter muggydo2. Then click on 'view live tracking'. This will show you where we have been and where we are now. It will only update when we have internet connection, which at the moment is only at night via the satellite (yes, I am travelling with the gadget man- we have satellite TV and internet- poor us!!)

Now for the family: I have asked the Caravan Park that we are staying at in Broome if it would be OK for them to collect some mail for us and they said it is fine (I'm thinking birthday cards- I don't want to completely snub my birthday you know!!).
We arrive about 3 weeks before my birthday, but I'm OK with that. I will be flying to Perth on the 1st for my MS infusion at Perth Hospital so that's why we are earlier than my actual birthday date.

We arrive on Wed 31/7/13 and leave on Mon 5/8/13.
The address is:
Tarangau Caravan Park,
PO Box 2459,
Broome WA 6725
Just attention it to ANTHONY AND JULIE MORCOM (IN 31/7/13) and they will hold it for us until we arrive.

I hope everyone is well. I will send another update in a few weeks time, but keep watching the tracker to see where we are.

Love to all,
Bye,

Jules and Anthony XXXXOOO